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To have a true appreciation for this headband, you MUST go shopping in Vail where fox headbands sell for $150 -- and people actually buy them! I've made more headbands than I can count because everyone loves them and I'm quick to say, "I'll make you one."
But perhaps not as many as a couple of women I met in Denver where our headband kits debuted in a Make-It/Take-It setting.
Consumers observed the step-by step instructions, then sat down to sew, or simply took home the kit if they didn't care to wait to use a sewing machine.
A woman returned the next day, delighted with the headband she completed in five minutes, the evening before. She was so enthused, she purchased additional kits to make headbands for each of her 20 sorority sisters. I relayed this success story to the next group and after the demonstration, a participant said she'd like to purchase all the remaining kits (we counted out 45) plus an additional five yards of fabric so she could offer an assortment of headbands at her church's fund-raiser.
Whether or not you go into the headband business, I hope you too enjoy making this headband and discover that faux furs are great fun to sew.
Cut headband on lengthwise grain, 6 by 26 inches. Use diagram to cut curved ends. (If you're working with a pre-cut kit, sail past this step.)
On the wrong side, use a ruler and marker (crayon is ideal) to mark notches every three or four inches along each long edge. This trick works well any time you're sewing a napped fabric that tends to slip in pinning/sewing.
Fold headband lengthwise, right sides together, with raw edges matching. Align notches and pin, placing pins perpendicular to seam. This is a good time to introduce the faux fur mantra: Poke and pin . . . poke and pin. Poke the pile to the right side as you pin, so pile isn't caught in the seam.
Set machine for a zigzag stitch (2W, 3.5L) Reduce presser foot pressure (if 6 is normal, reduce to 2). Reduce thread tension (if 6 is normal, reduce to 4). Using an embroidery foot (the grooved-out base sits nicely on the lofty pile), sew the long seam. Stitch WITH nap, sewing very close to the fabric edge.
Center seam; on the end where pile goes DOWN, match curved edges and pin. Stitch curved end.
Turn the open-ended tube right side out. Along wooden cooking spoon is ideal for facilitating this step.
Not you , silly. Give the headband a good shake to encourage the nap to lie properly.
A Velcro half is positioned on each end; Place soft half on underside of closed end. Using the same zigzag stitch and loose needle tension, stitch around Velcro. Lightly brush pile from stitching (a pet brush is the perfect tool).
Pin stiff half of Velcro to open end, face up, so that 1/2" is inside tube. Do a quick fit check. The fur ends should MEET. If they OVERLAP, trim the open end. With curved edges matching, pin, then stitch end, catching both layers of fur and Velcro.
That's it -- enjoy!
Use the following diagram as a template for cutting the headband ends.
Other articles online by Donna Salyers:
Fabu-Leather Sewing Tips
Fabulous-Furs has evolved into a ready-to-wear catalog. Though they no longer sell kits, faux fur fabrics are available (1/2-yd minimum). Visit their Web site to see fabrics: www.fabulousfurs.com
For a free catalog, write or call: Donna Salyers' Fabulous-Furs, 601 Madison Avenue, Covington, KY 41011 (800) 848-4650.
More information on Donna Salyer's Fabulous-Furs
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