GC Home | Register | Shop | Learn | Business | Around Town | Info


The Queen of Sew
Makes a Princess-Seamed Dress

By Shirley Cunningham, For the Fit of It

(The Queen of Sew is a fictional character created by Shirley Cunningham. She calls upon the Court Fitter  to provide answers to her sewing problems. If you would like the court fitter to address your particular sewing or fitting problem, contact For the Fit of It.)

Once upon a time, the Queen of Sew had a beautiful piece of fabric that she had purchased at the market place. She knew that she needed a special pattern silhouette to compliment the fabric and her body silhouette, "And what was her body silhouette," you ask? Her reply, "A size 40 "D."

The fabric she had purchased and loved had a medium, firm hand and therefore she knew that princess seaming was her best pattern silhouette. A princess seaming design was not hard to find and she made her usual pattern alterations.

The outfit was finished and it looked beautiful hanging in her sewing room. She was pleased with her sewing. When she tried on the outfit it was comfortable and the silhouette was becoming, but it was not as perfect as the Queen desired: the Court Fitter was summoned.

THE PROBLEM

The princess seaming was providing the correct contour for the Queen's bust line but the seams did not lie smooth against the body. There seemed to be fullness on one side of the princess seam that ran over the bust line and stress pulls at the side. The Court Fitter explained that these problems occur when the angles of each side of a seam are not the same. The problem occurred in the pattern and could be corrected.

THE SOLUTION

Correct the seam angles. To prevent the problem, the court Fitter explained to the Queen that she must always check every seam angle before cutting, regardless if alteration changes had been made to the seam or not. "Many times flaws occur in the original pattern and are not always the result of an alteration correction," she explained.

To check any princess seam providing contour for the bust follow  these steps.

STEP 1
Place the stitching lines of the corresponding princess seams on top of one another from the shoulder or armhole to the bust line. This placement will cause the princess seams to open below the bust line.

STEP 2
Examine the two stitching lines. To be correct and lie smooth, they must create a mirror image. If a mirror image is not  present, a redrawing to the seams must occur.

STEP 3
To correct the stitching lines, choose a drawing pen that will bleed through both layers of the pattern paper and draw a new seam line from the shoulder or armhole to the bust line. If the pattern paper in not transparent, you may use a tracing wheel.

STEP 4
To continue the true-ing of this princess seam, place the stitching lines of the corresponding princess seams on top of one another from the bust line down with the grain lines parallel. This placement will cause the princess seams to open above the bust line. Examine the two stitching lines. To be correct and lie smooth, they must create a mirror image. If a mirror image is not present, a redrawing to the seams must occur. Correct in the same manner as found in  STEP 3.

To check the angle of the side, follow these steps.

STEP 1
Place the stitching lines of the corresponding  side seams on top of one another from the armhole down. Check to make sure that the grain lines are parallel. If they are not, align the grain lines.

STEP 2
Examine the two stitching lines. To be correct and lie smooth, they must create a mirror image. If a mirror image  is not present the full length of the seam, a redrawing to the seams must occur.

STEP 3
Top correct the stitching lines, choose a  drawing pen that will bleed through both layers of the pattern paper and draw a new seam line the full length of the seam. If the pattern paper is not transparent, you may use a tracing wheel to indicate any correction.

The Queen of Sew followed the directions of the Court Fitter and checked the pattern. She discovered where the problems occurred with the various seam angles. She was able to make the corrections to the pattern and correct the seams on her garment that were disturbing to her and lived happily ever after! (Until her next problem!)

More information on For the Fit of It


Back to the Get Creative! Conference Center

Back to Meet the Get Creative! Experts

[_private/Tools/textcenter.htm]