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(Originally published in the Spring 1998 issue
of Total Embellishment Newsletter.)

Have you ever passed up a fabric you absolutely love because it was just TOO BOLD or Too Bright? The next time this happens, grab the bright fabric and race right to the sheer fabrics. Experiment with the different effects you can create by using the sheer fabric as an overlay for the bold, bright print. The sheer becomes a "partial mask," taming or toning down a bold fabric. It will enable you to utilize the bold fabric in a new way, in fact you actually create an entirely new fabric. Sheers can also enrich fabrics by changing a simple cotton into a fabric suitable for evening wear.

Try these ideas for sheer pleasure:

• Experiment with a variety of sheers. You'll soon discover than some are more translucent than others; some hide the base fabric more completely, while others shield very little color. Organdy, organza, voile, netting and lace can all be considered. Try every combination, in natural light if possible, to get the true effect.

• A sheer doesn't have to be positioned completely flat on the base fabric but can be gently folded, to further hide particularly bright areas on the base fabric or to give a light and dark effect. Folds can be small and subtle, or large and exaggerated. The sheer fabric can also be scrunched prior to application for a totally different look.

• Although silk sheers produce exquisite results, less expensive fabrics can also create a stunning look. Don't overlook 118"-wide drapery sheers as an economical possibility.

• Consider using a double needle to sew pintucks in the sheer layer prior to using it as a topper. Stitched pintucks will create evenly spaced shadows. The 6mm-wide double needle will create the deepest tucks but any width can be used.

• Try positioning a lightweight batting behind the base fabric and overlay, then machine quilting all the layers. Shirley Kamen of Rolling Hills, California made a spectacular jacket using this technique. She chose a wild drapery print for her base fabric, black organdy for the sheer layer and Warm and Naturalª for the batting, quilted together with gold metallic thread. Note: Shirley's custom jackets are all signed with her Yelrihs label (Shirley spelled backwards) sell for $400 and up!

• Cover only parts of the base fabric. Experiment with using an overlay only over specific motifs or colors to create the desired look. Also consider using overlays on the collar, cuff or yoke area to create the look of coordinating fabric. Sulky's KK2000ª Spray Adhesive will help tame and stabilize an overlay. Sew around the edges with a straight stitch to secure the overlay, and then satin stitch to cover all raw edges.

• Cut geometric shapes from several coordinating sheer scraps. Arrange them on a base fabric, then cover with a sheer overlay. The shapes will show up as subtle dark areas. Stitch around each shape to secure it in place and highlight it. Choose metallic thread for the outline, or couch a yarn or decorative thread. A simple row of satin stitching in a lustrous thread is elegant and somewhat understated.

Sheer Fashion

Sheers couldn't be more in fashion than this spring and summer. Look for great prints and geometrics in single and double georgettes, organzas and voiles. Previously relegated to the special occasion and bridal sections of your fabric store, they are now an entire section themselves, along with other daytime prints.

If you're hesitant to indulge in a sheer fabric because it's just "not you," consider layering them for color play. Lining can also be used where needed, but let the sheers be sheer in areas where modesty isn't a question, like sleeves, overlays, collars and cuffs. A basic slip dress with sheer overdress is a great summer look, and you can wear the under dress with other things, like a jacket, tunic or other wearable art topper.

Your serger is great for sheers-use it for narrow seams that don't show through, and for decorative rolled edge finishes on hemlines. If you have trouble with "pokies," try serging over a narrow pressed fold, then trimming away the second layer after your stitching is complete.

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