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Tips on Fitting Sleeves
by Susan Wigley, Paragon Patterns

 

 If you have a problem with sleeves being too tight or too loose here is an easy method for you to alter the patterns.

Step 1: Measure your upper arm circumference at your armpit and your biceps, also the forearm and wrist circumferences, then add 1 1/2" to 2" for ease. Now measure the patterns to determine how much you need to let the sleeve out (or take it in). Lay the pattern on a piece of butcher paper slightly larger than your pattern pieces and tape your patterns to it.

Step 2: If your sleeve is too tight in the upper arm only, divide the amount you need to let out in half and add that amount to the front sleeve and the back sleeve then plot a point (Sketch 2a). (For example, if you need to let it out 1" total, you would divide that in half and add 1/2" to the front of the sleeve and 1/2" to the back of the sleeve where the armhole and the under sleeve seam intersect.)

Sketch 2a

Plot another point at the forearm and draw a line that blends the under sleeve seam from the armhole to the forearm (blue lines).

 If the whole sleeve is too tight (or too loose), slash the sleeve pattern down the center along the grainline and spread it apart (or overlap it) to match your measurements (sketch 2b).

 Sketch 2b

 Step 3: Square a line to center front and center back bodices at the armhole. Then add the same amount to the armholes on the front and back bodices at the side seams and plot a point. Blend the new armhole into the side seam (blue lines).

 Congratulations! You just completed another a new technique!

More Information on Paragon Patterns


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