Supplies & Cutting
Special Seam Allowance: This pattern has a 1" side seam
allowance. Before you stitch the side seams, please pin fit to adjust for fit differences
from one fabric to the other.
Fabric: Bias-cut use lightweight silkys. Straight cut use knits or
stretch (flexible) wovens. Notions: Thread, interfacings, for bias-cut styles, 1/8"
ribbon and small snaps to make bra stays to put on inside of shoulder seams. The bias-cut
version fits the body great; however; the shoulder straps tend to fall off.
Cut one front, two side fronts, and one back, front and back facings
and interfacings.
Option Serger Facings: Cut back neck facing only. Turning the serged seam
allowance to the inside and topstitching can finish all other edges.
Special Stabilizing Technique for Bias-Cut Styles
Bias fits great over the curves of your body and left uncontrolled
distorts across the neckline and around the armholes. Use lightweight fusible interfacing
placed on neckline and armholes to control these edges. This way the bias edges will act
like a straight cut garment and not distort.
- Cut 3/8" strips of interfacing. Place the interfacing over the
paper pattern. Around the hemline, neckline and armholes, draw the stitch line onto the
interfacing. Make a strip of interfacing to extend from the seam line onto the garment for
3/8".
- Place the pattern pieces onto the ironing board. With wrong side up,
block the fabric onto the pattern to ensure that it is the right shape. Place the
interfacing strip onto the fabric and press to bond it to the fabric. Now the bias-cut
fabric has been tamed and will not loose shape.
Sewing Machine Construction
- With right sides together, at the shoulder seams, sew the front neck
facing to the front and the back to the front side panels. Press seams open.
- With right sides together, at the neck edge, sew the front facing to
the front. (For reversible styles, also sew the hem edge.) Turn facing to inside of front
& press and pin to hold the facing in place.
- With right sides together, at the armholes and neckline sew the
facing to the garment, stopping and back tacking at the dot on the front side panel where
the front joins to form the neckline. (For reversible, also sew the hem edge.)

- Press, clip and trim the seam allowances to1/4".
- At the shoulder seams, turn the fronts through the backs to right
sides out.

- With right sides together, sandwich the front between the front side
panels and front side panel facing.
- Sew the front to the front side panels from the neckline joining
point to the hem. Fold to right sides out and press.

- With right sides together, at the side seams, sew the front to the
back and the front facings to the back facings.
- Hem the top.
Optional Shortcut Serger Construction
Only the back neckline need be faced. All other edges are just
serged turned under and topstitched.
- Serge finish all edges except neckline back.
- With wrong sides together, stitch the back neck facing to the back.
Press the seam open, understitch and trim. Press the facing to the wrong side.
- Fold the seam allowance under across the top of the front neckline
and top stitch 1/4' from foldline.
- With right sides together, match the front to the side front and
stitch.
- With right sides together, stitch the fronts to the backs at the
shoulder seams. Press seams open. Fold front neckline seam allowance under and topstitch
around the rest of the neckline.
- With right sides together, stitch the side seams. Press.
- Fold the armhole seams allowances to the wrong side. Topstitch
the armholes.
- Fold the hem seams allowances to the wrong side. Press and topstitch.
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Pattern on graph