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"IT FITS!!! THE THRILL OF SUCCESS"
Kathleen Spike, CPPC, Coaching Works
You are almost at the end of your pant sewing project. There is the anticipation of accomplishment, a thrill that "you" will finally have completed something you dreamed of, planned on and applied your focus to. You will have "pants that fit!" The process made sense, you followed the steps and you have success. That is because you followed Kathleen Spikes "PANTS CAN FIT" booklet and her "TWO HOUR TROUSER" video. Pants, for the first time, are easier.
You have learned how to create a skirted front as shown below. This is probably one of the most intriguing and potent factors that influence every pant style you make. It was discovered while Kathleen was "snoop shopping" in expensive ready-to-wear stores.
SKIRTED PANT FRONT
Skirted Front's are necessary on most bodies, esspecially on trousers and looser styles. The capri and cigarette legged pant will require less of this technique. With a skirted front, the pant hangs from the abdomen straight down over the thigh. (photo #4) I learned this technique by studying designer ready-to-wear on my body, and trying to fugure out what made one look great and the other one awful, why did the looser pants make women look so sleek and chic. The answer is the skirted front hides the curve of the tummy.
Look at the two pictures. Picture A has the skirted look, (photo #4) and the pattern was altered (I11#2) tp achieve that front look. Picture B does not have the skirted front (photo #5), because the pattern was not altered like A. Look at the slope of the center front seam down photo #4, the center front of the body and into the crotch area. Picture B tucks back into the crotch and rests closer to the body, exposing the fullness of the tummy. Photo #4 is moved out away from the body, because you added onto the inseam, beginning at the crotch point.
If you add too much on the front pattern piece before you cut, it can be removed , in increments, during the sewing process. Please Note! When you alter the front patten piece, you do not have to alter the back pattern piece at the same time. They hook together, but they are altered separately and for different reasons. Right now we are just talking about altering the front of the pattern. Be careful as you alter the inseam. Too much of an increase at the inseam, down through the knee, and you have created another problem, although it can be fixed. The problem you might see is too much added on the crotch point and down through the knee. You have to experiment with how much you add. It may be a little and it may be a lot. As you sew and fit, add to, or take away, at this seam to get the skirted front just right. The goal is to be sure the pant hangs straight down from the tummy and over the thigh , to minimize the tummy, and to give you that flatter look fo yur younger years.
The premise is that pants that provide more room "across" the front thigh actually minimize the definition or extend appearance of a womans tummy. It is part of being a woman to have at least some tummy pooch. Kathleen says, "I call it a feminine "bump", part of who we are." For some people there is more of who they are than they want, however they too can minimize the appearance by using the skirted front concept.
Please try the concept by purchasing the booklet at getcreative.com/ks designs (or whatever). When you have completed the pant, Kathleen would enjoy hearing your stops, blocks, frustrations with the instructions plus she would like to hear of your successes. You can reach here at [email protected]. You may send your order by snail mail, fax or email, however we are not secured for visa on email. Call that # in to 503-417-1895.
Happy Sewing. Kathleen
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